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SIMVOLY LEGITIMACII PRINADLEZhNOSTI K IMPERII V KOSTYuME KOChEVNIKOV ZOLOTOJ ORDY
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SIMVOLY LEGITIMACII PRINADLEZhNOSTI K IMPERII V KOSTYuME KOChEVNIKOV ZOLOTOJ ORDY
Annotation
PII
S086919080000619-7-1
Publication type
Article
Status
Published
Authors
Zvezdana Dode 
Edition
Issue 4
Pages
25-35
Abstract
Among the different races and tribes of the population of the Golden Horde a costume typical element was widely prevalent. However it is not quite correct to consider the royal insignia and the social regalia in the context of a costume as a single row; they had different ideological bases. The signs of royal power - a banner, an umbrella, the ruler's armchair, military drums and paitsy as well as the person of the ruler himself symbolized the “Centre of the World”. The signs and symbols reflected in the costume, which marked the individual’s social status in the imperial culture, regulated the social space of the Mongolian society, on the one hand, and were, on the other hand, a kind of original code, the observance of which by an individual demonstrated the individual’s personal loyalty to the Empire regardless of the individual’s ethnic belonging. At the same time a desire to wear the costume accepted by the ruling ethnic element did not mean the leveling of ethnic peculiarities in the costumes of other groups of the population of the Golden Horde. For example, Turkic characteristics prevail in the intact costumes of the Golden Horde from the Northern Caucasian graves of Djukhtu and Novopavlovsk: a left-hand wrapping up, the identity of the cutting out of man’s and woman’s clothing, a belt on woman’s clothing and the peculiar headgear of the buried persons differing from the Mongolian bokks and Mongolian man’s hats. However, it was exactly very important for another ethnic subject to demonstrate his inclusion into the culture of the Empire and his closeness to the ruling top by means of using general imperial heraldic symbols: the image of a dragon, which symbolized the Supreme Power in the Empire, and the signs of the sun and the moon, whose semantics was connected with the charisma of Genghis Khan and the closeness to his “golden family”. The preservation of ethnic marks and the heraldic imperial symbols in the costume is the evidence that an individual identified himself as a subject of the empire at the same rime preserving his ethnic and cultural self-consciousness.
Date of publication
01.07.2005
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